Paragon Kiln Wash is applied by air brush to all the molds I sell for sagging and slumping. Fusing and slumping/sagging are not the same. Fusing is to melt glass pieces together. Slumping/sagging is to get the glass just hot enough to drape over/into a mold and form the shape of such mold From time to time you will need to refresh the "kiln wash" coating in your slumping molds; with that being the case, mix your kiln wash according to (kiln wash) manufactures recommendation. You want to apply the wash as smooth as possible to eliminate ridges and bumps in jewelry pieces or flattened bottles. Cleaning the Bottle: Make sure every iota of glue and paper have been removed from the surface. The glue can leave a residue that will be permanently etched into the glass. I have found that by spraying the entire surface of the label with Dawn Power Dissolver and letting the bottles set for about 3 hours(to allow the dissolver to work) the labels practically fall off. I go over the surface with a Scotch pad to remove any remaining glue. I do not put labels back on the bottles, however I've read that you can try heating with a hair dryer, steamer, or heat gun. Most labels are affixed with hot glue, so reheating the glue usually allows the label to slide off.This will allow the label to be placed back on the bottle (decoupage). Enamel: I decorate the bottles using a sand blaster or by using stencils with Paints and Porcelain's brand of water soluble enamel. After mixing the enamel to the thickness of toothpaste, I tape a stencil to a clean bottle; with a fully loaded cosmetic sponge I pounce the enamel over the stencil to get a wonderful affect. Yes, the enamel can be tinted with dry china paint. Water Soluble Enamel Earleen's website My findings are that Glass Paints are not intense paints, this is the reason I prefer enamel. I suggest that you do your own experimenting and see what works best for you. REFIRING BOTTLES Word of warning... minimize your firings when working with bottles. Because of the various thickness in slumped and flattened bottles, they tend to break when refired unless you refire VERY SLOW, allowing the glass to heat evenly. When working with glass, patience is a virtue. Fusing Schedule for Digital Kiln Fast fire kiln (600º/per hour) to 1450º (do not exceed 1500º) Hold/Soak at 1450º for 25 minutes Flash vent kiln (open lid) until temp drops below 1420º Squeeze glass (Hold/soak at 1175º for 30 Minutes) to help eliminate bubbles Flash vent to 1000º Hold/Soak at 950º for 2 hours (anneal). Fusing with a Manual Kiln Use cone 014 - Fast Fire, all peep holes closed. Fill kiln with as much kiln furniture as possible. The volume of the furniture slows down the heating and most importantly the cooling process allowing the glass to anneal (makes stronger) Glass Slumping Wine, beer, glass bottles Make sure mold is protected with good cover of kiln wash, separator or kiln paper Fast fire 1220º (digital kilns = 500º per hour) A Good Schedule for Fire Polishing Glass 400º per hour to 1000º and hold for 20 minutes As fast as possible ramp up to 1300º and hold for 5 minutes As fast as possible (open kiln door) ramp down to 950º degrees, close kiln and hold for 60 minutes Then down to 400º degrees per hour to 100º and turn the kiln off. The typical temperatures are between 1300º and 1400º for about ten to twenty minutes. Spectrum (COE 96) usually polishes at about 1300º Bullseye (COE 90) at about 1325º. Temperatures that are high enough to polish are also high enough to distort the edges of the glass, so stay at the polish temperature for only a short time. |
